LONDRA: weekend “fashion” assolutamente “alla moda”

In the heart of super trendy Chelsea, a stone’s throw from the fashionable Kings Road, I discovered a restaurant that marries tradition, innovation and creativity with a simple and confident attitude. It is Elystan Street, at the helm of which we find Phil Howard, who is also about to open in Covent Garden his second restaurant with an Italian menu, the Pasta Bar Notto, featuring italian inspired dishes such as burrata with black cabbage and anchovy, garlic & orange dressing, veal with tuna sauce, gnocchetti with smashed sausage, white wine, fennel & chilli, pumpkin & chestnut ravioli with pine nuts, brown butter, sage & parmesan, just to name few. Phil’s prerogative is using 100% classic flavors, which doesn’t mean not being creative, but invites freshness, therefore tradition without being too heavy.I met Phil at Elystan Street

Hi Phil, your first memory in the kitchen?The slightly toasted scent of the lake fish that I had just caught and which was cooked by my parents on their farm. It was simple cuisine, basic dishes, everything always very fresh.Do you enjoy cooking fish?I love fish dishes, England is surrounded by seas, I think that here you can find some of the best fish in the world and I assure you… I have traveled (and enjoyed) a lot, I have just returned from Tokyo and Kyoto and I love traveling in Africa.Mine is a job in which pleasure is important, and I think that Italian cuisine is its spokesperson. I have been cooking for 35 years and there has always been a pasta dish on my menuDo you cook at home?Yes, simple dishes: fish, meat and then my wife Jennie is a fantastic cook. I also like to browse other restaurants, although I tend to always return to my favourites.For example?Riva, an Italian restaurant on Church Rd, in business for many years. I find them to offer the best cotoletta alla milanese.Passionate about Italian cuisine?Mine is a job where the key word is “pleasure”. I think Italian cuisine is its spokesperson. I have been cooking for 35 years and a pasta dish has always appeared on my menu, often combined with local excellences, such as my Orkney scallop ravioli, a type of crustacean that is harvested by hand in the pristine waters of the Orkney Islands in Scotland.One of your favorite dishes?Cashew hummus, a dish that has evolved over the years.Can you give us the recipe?Here you go!Cashew nut hummus with roasted vegetables, a light curry dressing, nut milk and limeServes 4IngredientsFor the hummus50g cashews125g chickpeas1 heaped tbsp tahini1 tbsp lemon juice (approx. 1/3 lemon)75ml base liquor (see below) or chickpea cooking water20ml vegetable oil½ tsp saltFreshly ground black pepperFor the base liquor (optional)75g (approx. ½ onion), sliced25g demerara sugar½ tsp black peppercorns½ tsp coriander seeds1 thyme sprig1 tarragon sprig1 bay leaf1 tsp salt50ml white wine vinegar250ml water1 strip orange zest1 strip lemon zestFor the nut milk50g cashew nuts60ml cold waterA pinch of saltA pinch of sugarFor the dressing2 shallots, finely chopped1 garlic clove, minced1 teaspoon mild curry powder200ml apple juice50ml extra virgin oil50ml vegetable oilSalt & freshly ground black pepperFor the roasted vegetables50ml light olive oil4 cauliflower florets¼ celeriac, peeled and cut into bite sized pieces8 baby carrots, peeled1 medium red onion, cut into 8 wedges8 spring onions, trimmed and cut in half lengthwaysTo serve1 lime, zested1 tbsp pomegranate seedsMethodFor the nut milk, soak the cashews a large bowl filled with water over night. Drain the cashews the next morning and put into a powerful blender with about 60ml of fresh water. Blitz thorough until smooth… this will take some time. You’re looking for a double cream consistency, so add a little more water if necessary. Season with a pinch of sugar and salt. Pass through a fine sieve.For the chickpeas, put them into a bowl and cover with water. Leave overnight or for up to 10 hours. The chickpeas will swell, so ensure that you use plenty of water. If you don’t have time to do this, tip the dried chickpeas into a saucepan of water, boil for a minute and then turn off and leave to soak for an hour. When you’re ready to cook them, put them into a large saucepan, cover with water and bring to the boil and then turn down to simmer for an hour. Check the chickpeas regularly from about 40 minutes onwards to see if they’re tender, if they are, drain them – retain the cooking water for later.For the base liquor, put all the ingredients into a large saucepan, bring to the boil, reduce to a simmer for 15 minutes and allow to cool. Drain, keeping only the liquor.For the hummus, preheat the oven to 180°C (normal) | 160°C (fan) | gas mark 4. Put the cashew nuts onto a baking tray and roast for 10 to 15 minutes, being careful not to burn. Once golden, allow them to cool and then put them, the chickpeas, tahini, garlic, lemon juice, chickpea cooking water or base liquor, salt and pepper into a food processor and blend whilst gradually adding the oil. You are looking for a rich, textured hummus. Check the seasoning and adjust if necessary.For the dressing, chop the shallots finely. Place a medium heavy based saucepan over a medium heat and allow to come to temperature. Add the vegetable oil, shallots and a generous pinch of salt. Stir and sweat for a few minutes or until translucent. Add the garlic and curry powder and cook for a further 2 minutes. Add the apple juice, bring to the boil and reduce until 2 tablespoons remain. Remove from the heat, set aside to cool and add the olive oil. Check the seasoning.For the roasted vegetables, preheat the oven to 180°C (normal) | 160°C (fan) | gas mark 4. Toss the cauliflower, celeriac, baby carrots and red onion in all but 1 tablespoon of the light olive oil. Season. Place on a baking tray and roast in the oven for 20 minutes or until golden and tender. Dress the spring onions in the remaining oil and blacken on a hot chargrill, griddle or frying pan. Remove from the heat and season.To serve, smear a large spoon of hummus over the base of each of the 4 plates. Carefully place the roasted vegetables onto the hummus and generously coat with the curry dressing. Drizzle a small quantity of the nut milk over the top and garnish with the pomegranate seeds and freshly grated lime zest.Appetite…Italian?At 104 Brick Lane, iNDEGNO, a well-known Bolognese crescentineria, opens its first English space where it is possible to taste a vast range of stuffed crescentine, tortellini and cappellacci,This gastronomic proposal brings the Bolognese nature of this Made In Italy sector to the United Kingdom, with particular attention to the research and use of the highest quality raw materials, from cured meats and cheeses to the flours used both for crescentine and for the tortellini. There are also vegetarian and vegan options on the menu. You will feel like you are walking under the arcades of Bologna, even if you are just a stone’s throw from the London Tower!.INFOhttps://www.elystanstreet.com/https://www.nottopastabar.com/